The BFH (Big Fat High)

IMG_4465You’ve probably never heard of a big fat high (BFH). Neither had we – but this somewhat unusual weather pattern was to create near ideal conditions for us during the potentially tough passage south between Tonga and New Zealand. While the low latitude circumnavigation (trade wind) route has been nick named the “coconut milk run” conditions west of French Poly can be affected to a significant degree by systems developing to the south. Indeed between Bora Bora and Tonga, we had already encountered enhanced trades due to the “squeeze effect” as these systems abut the trade wind belt accelerating winds and building southerly swells. They say if “the (high) pressure is over 30, the weather gets dirty”. Many seasoned circumnavigators frequently report their toughest conditions in the stretch heading south to New Zealand from Tonga or Fiji. So, it was with some apprehension that we and many other sailors fill the Wifi cafes each day in Neiafu Harbour anxiously poring over computer generated weather forecasts, and wind/wave models (GRIB files), reading MetBob’s* weekly forecast and tuning in each morning to the knowledgeable David Spillane’s daily weather rundown on Gulf Harbour Radio (SSB 8.752 MHz; www.ghradio.co.nz)

*Bob McDavett ,the Kiwi weather guru and router whom we used for voyage planning.

Mango Bar, NeiafuAfter the check out formalities, we rafted up 3 deep in Neiafu to top with duty free fuel delivered to the main dock by tanker.

Refuelling, NeiafuThis harbour, also called Refuge Bay for its all round protection, turned gusty and grey in pouring rain with white caps scudding across the water while Meteo Tonga issued a strong wind and damaging swell warning – a nice little morale booster as we were committed to sail 1,200 miles south to NZ.

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Last calm meal (bacon!)

As predicted by David & Patricia (Gulf Harbour Radio,) we did have “sporty” conditions the first 3 days heading south from Tonga but no major surprises nor easterly moving depressions or fronts that can frequently come in from the west.

 

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Alex in his element

IMG_9142Fortunately, the winds averaged only 20-25 knots with 2-3m, somewhat confused, beam seas but the predicted 3.9m seas did not eventuate. Although uncomfortable, Sea Cloud performed admirably, slicing though the seas with triple reefed main, double reefed genoa doing 8+ knots much of the time. What great sailing – posting daily averages of 180Nm for the first 3 days.

After day 3 the seas and winds subsided to 18-22kts and, with a full moon, even the night shifts were a delight. With Alex and Diana (formerly SY Enki; HR48) on board, we all had plenty of sleep and quickly settled into the rhythm of the passage and daily routines as the daylight hours lengthened rapidly. We couldn’t have asked for better crew than Alex and Diana who unhesitatingly accepted when we first invited them to join us on the passages between French Poly and NZ. They have countless sea miles under their belts, most of them in SY Enki, an identical HR48, and they are unbeatable scrabble players – so they were right at home on Sea Cloud. Diana is a great cook and Alex is superb at cleaning up.

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IMG_9160As we head south we are working our way through all our fresh food to leave as little as possible to surrender to NZ Customs. Those wonderful pamplemoose (grapefruit); bananas, papaya and pineapples will be sorely missed; as will the plentiful fresh fish which filled our freezer.

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The water and air temperatures also plummeted. It was the first time we’d been in winter woollies, sea boots and wet weather gear on Sea Cloud for a very long time.

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IMG_9157Ian hung on desperately to his tropical gear while Alex dressed appropriately for the “subtropical” conditions.

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Ian kept in touch the daily informal SSB radio net with a small flock of about 5 boats within a radius of about 300 miles. He also logged into the larger SOPAC SSB net (8.137MHz) daily which connected a greater number of yachts within a radius of 1,000 miles, en route to either Australia or New Zealand. This was useful getting actual wind and sea observations ahead of us to reconcile with our GRIB files. Although we only saw one other yacht throughout the passage, there were a lot of us out there. During the following week, 200 yachts arrived in Opua many trying to get south before the official start of the cyclone season (1st Nov) and taking full advantage of the BFH.

Nightly SSB radio Net

The weather settled as predicted. We had beautiful sailing on calmer seas, a full moon and very pleasant weather. It was calm enough to do some boat jobs, work and sewing.

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We were welcomed into NZ territorial waters by the Navy Orion aircraft.

IMG_4467Land Ho! The green hills of the northern cape of NZ were a very welcome sight after 7 days at sea. Even more pleasing, we’d arrived 2 days ahead of the expected incoming low pressure approaching the North Island.IMG_3118

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What we’d thought was a black and white navigational aid as we approached Whangarei was in fact a training F-50 (foiling cat). The chase boats had difficulty keeping up what we estimated as a speed of about 35knots in only 12knots of breeze.

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Safely berthed in Marsden Cove Marina, Whangarei it was time for a cold beer and celebratory glass of bubbly and fois gras while watching the glorious sunset and looking forward to a night of sleep in a non-moving bed.

Landfall NZ - time to celebrate!

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So good to be in beautiful New Zealand. We took advantage of the last of the fine weather brought by the BFH to explore the Whangarei town and environs.

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We couldn’t have asked for better crew than Diana and Alex.

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Sea Cloud was hauled out Port Whangarei Marine Centre for some maintenance. We had just made it in time, the day after lifting we had 49knots through the yard. The BFH had moved on, making way for the usual system of lows to cross NZ.

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Sea Cloud – 26.5Tons!

 

The Cooks miss the Cooks

by guest blogger, Diana Bagnall

Almost a month has slipped past since Sea Cloud was boarded by a couple of pale-skinned, bleary-eyed, past-their-prime individuals whose most convincing claim to a berth on the vessel as she headed westward from French Polynesia was an intimate knowledge of her dark and private spaces, and a fair to reasonable understanding of how she is likely to perform in a variety of gnarly situations.

So far, so good.

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Would you sail across an ocean with these two?

The crew are still on board. Jeez, Barry.  The good-humoured captain continues to propose Dark and Stormies each evening as the sun goes down – or not, as was the case last night when Neiafu harbor was a blur of low cloud and fine drizzle. We are tied off to a mooring here, debating endlessly (as happens always in these situations) the merits or otherwise of departing for New Zealand today, tomorrow or the day after. You wouldn’t believe the algorithms these weather people can come up with now. The skipper has a rather inelegant phrase to describe what they do to your head.

This next 1200 mile passage from Tonga down to the top of New Zealand is the big one. It’s the one everyone stresses about, and it’s when a couple more hands on deck can really be useful. We’ll just say that it’ll be fine, and we’ll tell you when we’re into Whangarei, our nominated port of entry.

To backtrack though….The passage from Bora Bora through to Tonga is frequently under-estimated by cruisers. More tradewind sailing, dah de dah. Piece of cake. Actually, it proves not to be so often. Actually, it’s also 1200 miles, and that’s a long way.

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Downwind sailing never loses its appeal

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On passage we are all big readers

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It doesn’t happen often but every so often the girls bring out their stitching

Sea Cloud broke her voyage at the 1000 mile mark in Niue, bypassing all of the Cook Islands including the curiosity of Palmerston (an atoll supporting 60 people) in order to have something more interesting to do during the enforced four-day layover. There was no proceeding past Niue because the weather ahead had turned to custard. Big seas, big winds.

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Big seas are always difficult to photograph

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The swell off Togo cave on the south coast of Niue – glad we weren’t out there

Niue was fun. Sea Cloud’s skipper and his fabulously cheerful wife put high store on achieving a decent fun-to-crap ratio (another of the skipper’s memorable phrases, by the way). So we got out there in a rental car for a couple of days. You really can’t go that far in Niue, which is a smallish limestone rock surrounded by crashing seas. But what you see is dramatic, and the water is so startlingly clear (the limestone again) that when you don mask, snorkel and fins, the sights under the water are astoundingly vivid. Top marks to Niue for water clarity and surely some of the world’s most bizarre limestone formations.

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The mooring field off the town of Alofi on Nuie island was rollier than it looks here

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It seems complicated at first, but you soon get the hang of lifting your tender ashore on Niue

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Walking on Niue with Dominique (front) and Frederic of Cap a Cap, a French-flagged Garcia

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The glorious colour in Limu pools, one of the clearest snorkelling spots on the planet, surely

Ian will not remember Niue for the quality of its bush roads however. They are off the chart in terms of potholes, scratchy bushes, and reliable lack of signage.

We pushed on from Niue a little ahead of time, forcing Ian and Cathy to cancel a dive. More’s the pity, but if there’s a choice between taking the wind, and taking a dive, the wind wins. Even so, we lost it about 12 hours out of Tonga. That opened the way for a bit of fishing. This (below) is the money shot, perhaps not the one Ian wanted, but it expresses the essence of the fight. The Prof vs the Sailfish. Yes, that’s right, folks. Game on. Cathy wasn’t keen on the event at all, but Ian was determined to bring the big fish into the boat. Then, and only then, did the first mate get the go ahead to cut it free.

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The Prof vs the Sailfish

Sea Cloud entered the Vava’u archipelago on a perfect Sunday afternoon, when all of Tonga was either asleep or feasting on barbecued pig, and dropped anchor in Port Maurelle, a bay remembered fondly by the crew from their own cruising days in Vava’u in 2015.

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Swallow’s Cave, on Kapa island, in the Vava’u archipelago, Tonga

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Port Maurelle was a sight for sore eyes on entry to Tonga

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Diana in one of those old Turkish tee shirts that keep on giving

With only five days out in the islands, we’ve managed to tick off Swallow’s Cave, Hunga lagoon and the splendid coral garden snorkel near anchorage 16 (the Vava’u island anchorages are so difficult to remember, and there are so many of them, that cruising yachts and fishermen refer to them by numbers).

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Sunset over Port Maurelle

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Moving between Hunga (#13) and Vaka’eitu (#16) anchorages

And Cathy and crew hit the market hard. We’re leaving port with a stack of pineapples on the aft deck, and the benchtop packed tight with tomatoes, green peppers, bananas, papaya and new potatoes.

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To market, to market…to buy what we need

P1130227The crew have a tan now, by the way. It’s unfashionable to acquire a tan these days, but here in the islands, it works better than pale with the prevailing fashions. If summer temps have arrived by the time we reach New Zealand though, I’ll eat my salt-infused hat.

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Jeez Barry,  you’d think they would have had enough of each other by now

Photos by guest photographer, Alex Nemeth

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This market lady sold sweet basil and other herbs, with cruisers in mind

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Staff at Mango cafe polishing trophies in anticipation of the opening of the billfish competition 

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Future Tongan rugby player on the mean streets of Neiafu

Last of the Societies

After a very speedy trip back to Sydney to catch up with family and friends, we flew back into Raiatea.

IMG_8817The small Opoa hotel was a perfect place to enjoy lunch on our last day on this lovely island.

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IMG_8827The weather for the next 10 days was superb, the calmest and sunniest stretch we’d had in this part of the world. The calm weather enabled us to anchor over lovely white sand, just off the Coral Garden on Tahaa.

IMG_6497IMG_6521What a beautiful spot. The days were spent snorkelling amongst the coral and many colourful fish. Some say that the best thing about Bora Bora is the view from Tahaa. We’d yet to visit Bora Bora, but they may be right.

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The wind came up enough for a slow sail across to Huahine. As we threaded our way along the inside of the reef to Avea Bay we were joined by a local in his Va’a, obviously training for the big race between Huahine, Bora Bora and Raiatea which occurs in November. He had no trouble keeping up with Sea Cloud.

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Avea Bay at the southern end of Huahine is such a beautiful anchorage. After months of avoiding coral heads and trying to find a spot with good holding, it was wonderful to drop the anchor in sand holding in beautiful clear water. It was a week of exploring by dinghy, enjoying happy hour and local entertainment at the Mahana Hotel

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IMG_6575cycling around Huahine Iti, and driving around the larger Huahine Nui.

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Huahine is known as the wild one because of its rugged lush green soaring hills. As well as being a spectacular island, it is also incredibly friendly and laid back.

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IMG_6590Unfortunately the good weather ended the day before the Diana and Alex arrived to join us on our next adventures down to New Zealand. We met them at the dinghy dock in pouring rain which continued relentlessly for the whole day.

IMG_8996Provisioning complete, we sailed to Raiatea for the night, then on to Bora Bora the next morning. Luckily the rain had stopped so we could enjoy approach to the famous Bora Bora to check out of French Polynesia.

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The good weather didn’t last for long, with very strong winds and lots of rain for our first few days in Bora Bora where we anchored off the very bumpy MaiKai Hotel. This used to be a haven for yachties, but the new management certainly wasn’t welcoming.  We moved to the much calmer and friendlier Bora Bora Yacht club where we met up with a number of cruisers also heading west to Tonga.

Although we haven’t seen much of Bora Bora we are keen to move along. The weather is looking pretty good, so on to Tonga, hopefully breaking up the 1200nm (8 day sail) with stops in the Cook Islands of Palmerston and or Niue if weather allows.

 

 

Society Islands – Tahiti and Moorea

Although it was hard to leave Rangiroa and the Tuamotus, we were excited to be heading to Tahiti to meet up with Bron and Tim, my sister and brother in law.

The Bay of Venus where Captain Cook spent time to watch the transit of Venus was a perfect anchorage. It was peaceful, calm and had stunning views of the green hills of Tahiti.

IMG_6166 It was a shock to the system to be back in the ‘big smoke’ of Papeete. Marina Papeete is right the middle of town, conveniently located close to the central market.

We had a relatively calm day to sail to Moorea. As we rounded the top of the island, Ian thought he spotted an uncharted reef, only to realise that it was a whale. The whale seemed quite interested in Sea Cloud, diving under the boat, surfacing just nearby and breaching so many times. An incredible welcome for Bron and Tim, we had to tell them such a display is not a normal part of our daily cruising life.

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IMG_6232IMG_6234IMG_6211We spent a week anchored behind the reef in the beautiful Opunohu Bay in Moorea.

IMG_6258IMG_6249It was a week of relaxing,

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IMG_9454swimming with the sharks and rays

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IMG_8674IMG_8678IMG_8686Bron and Tim had a taste of the cruising life, meeting some of the friends we’d been cruising with over the past few months,

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and sampling some of the local cuisine. We ate a lot of tuna!

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Snorkelling with the whales was one of the experiences of a lifetime. Looking down through the water you realised the large shape slowly appearing then rising below you was a pair of whales. Such beautiful, graceful and gentle creatures.

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Tim thinks we should be trading in Sea Cloud for a catamaran such as Panache! Price and Benny cooked a feast of dumplings for our last night in Moorea.

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We all (including Bron) enjoyed a lovely sail back to Papeete

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We rented a car and circumnavigated Tahiti. We’d hoped to see some of the Billabong Pro competition at Teahupoo on Tahiti Nui. Unfortunately there was no surf that day, so no competition.

I can’t imagine that there are many places where you can anchor your boat so close to the really big waves.

IMG_6276IMG_6295IMG_6278this is how the waves should have looked..

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Lunch in this part of the world was a very casual affairIMG_6297IMG_8722We farewelled Bron and Tim and sailed overnight to Raiatea, where we’d planned to haul out and leave Sea Cloud for the cyclone season. The day we arrived we were told that Sea Cloud was too big for the lift at Raiatea Carenage.

We had non refundable flights booked home and family and friends looking forward to seeing us. Luckily, we were able to leave Sea Cloud for a week in Marina Apooiti. We flew back to Sydney to catch up with family and friends. On our return, we will prepare for the 2500Nm sail to New Zealand. Not what we’d planned for this season, but it is our only option. You need to be flexible in this cruising life!

 

Rangiroa

Entry via Avotora Pass at slack water looks benign, but the 2 wrecks (one each end of the pass) are a timely reminder that these passes can be tricky.

1Tiputa pass during outgoing current in benign conditions can still look pretty ugly for the sailor but..

Great sport for the dolphins and the evening dolphin watchers..2

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Especially when a larger vessel exits 4

Dropped anchor (under sail for the 3rd time this season thanks to another failure by the “Green Death”, aka Volvo diesel) in calm idyllic anchorage in sand (littered with coral bommies) overlooked by the lucky guests at the Kia Ora luxury resort.

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7Taking advantage of the calm weather and the next outgoing current, just a hop skip and a jump in an inflatable with Rangiroa Plongee to dive the outer reef.

8We were extremely lucky to not only see the dolphins but one clearly keen to “chill out and play”.

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14The snorkelling inside the atoll behind a small motu kept us entertained when not diving. The myriad of fish and lazy black tip sharks is why this very accessible spot is called “The Aquarium”.

15161819Our daily routine started with a morning dive; either a drift dive into the Tiputa Pass where one felt like flying over canyons.

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21More enjoyable and interesting were the outer reef dives with the chance of seeing “the big stuff” with a foray out into “deep blue” to see dolphins, this school of large sailfish or the sharks lingering in the deeper water.

2223… as well as the coral gardens supporting copious reef fish of all shapes and colours.

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We’d highly recommend a daylong excursion to the Blue Lagoon (an atoll within an atoll) on the SW margin of the atoll. It’s a tricky place to take Sea Cloud as there is no protection from virtually all prevailing wind and waves – so it’s not tenable in anything over 10kts of breeze. Instead we relaxed while Manu from Rangiroa Fishing Tours took as small group to his family’s island for a magical snorkel amongst the sharks, fresh fish lunch and some simple R&R while soaking up the ambience. Manu did a superb job and we felt totally alone in this popular tourist attraction.

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Tuamotus

IMG_8275Unsettled weather prolonged our stay Fakarava. We seemed to be in synch with our friends Benny and Price on Panache who had their lovely kids visiting from Canada. We’d transited the canal tied to Panache and have met up with them in many places since. Panache is notorious for good food and company, usually in the ‘Tiki lounge’ of their lovely, very spacious catamaran.We visited the little pearl farm/resort in Rotava, all buying a pearl in their lucky dip. Some were very lucky when their oyster was opened to reveal a large black pearl.

 

The resort was a lovely place for lunch, the delicious local poisson cru – fish marinaded in lime and coconut milk.

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After a boisterous sail back into the wind we anchored for a few more days in Kauehi, a place we’d loved but had left all too soon.

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Normally the 40Nm sail from Kauehi to Toau would have been an easy day sail, but not here in the Tuamotus. To ensure we coordinated our exit through Kauehi pass and arrival at the Toau pass at slack current, we needed 2 days to get from Kaeuhi to Toau, with an overnight stop in North Fakarava. Kauehi to Fakarava worked well, conditions were good and the passes manageable. When we tried to exit N Fakarava the next morning, the current was stronger than we’d expected– 5knots of current pushing us towards 1m standing waves in the pass. I am sure Sea Cloud would have coped, but we are pretty conservative. So, another night in Fakarava. The next morning we arrived at the pass at what was supposed to be slack current and had a manageable 4knots of outgoing current and only small standing waves. The winds were stronger and seas higher and more confused than predicted, or expected. After a few rather uncomfortable hours of sailing, we realised that we wouldn’t be able to get through the Toau pass that day. We kept sailing to Anse Amyot, a lagoon like haven on the NW corner of Toau. Anse Amyot has an opening to the sea through a small pass, but no opening into the main atoll of Toau and can be entered at any time. We could have come straight from Kaeuhi, as Panache did in one day, rather than take 4 days. Luckily we have lots of time.

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It was hard to tear ourselves away from this gorgeous spot. Gaston and Valentine, the owners of the nearby motu have a small restaurant serving lobster and a few mooring buoys which they rent to yachts.

As there is a constant flow of water into the lagoon, the water was exceptionally clear, the coral beautiful and the fish prolific. It was incredible to see the colourful fish swimming around the coral head 9m below Sea Cloud.

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We were often the only boat in the lagoon, but did have 2 rather big visitors during our stay, a very unusual sight in this part of the world.

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aaApataki, the next atoll north was a pleasant day sail away. The south pass was scary looking but easy at slack current. Pearl farming is big in Apataki, and the Chinese influence obvious.IMG_5859 half

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We anchored off the Apataki Carenage. The enterprising local family had turned their pearl farm and vegetable gardens into a boatyard, providing hurricane season storage for about 50 boats, mainly catamarans.

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The anchorage near the Apataki’s north pass was fabulous. We anchored in sand about half a mile from the pass, taking care to avoid the numerous coral heads below.ap13

The weather was calm and sunny and the drift snorkel of the pass breathtaking.  The clarity of the water was unbelievable. The water under the dinghy was about 3m deep and you could see the coral so clearly.

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Once in the pass we drifted along towing the dinghy, feeling as though we were flying, easily seeing the bottom of the pass 30m below us. The coral banks on the side of the pass extended for a few kms. It was so good, we did it again and again and we were the only ones there.ap9

As the southerly winds came in, we headed out through the pass for a very slow overnight sail, ensuring we would arrive at our destination Ahe at daybreak and slack current. As we couldn’t average a speed of more than 4 knots, it was a change for us having to constantly try and slow Sea Cloud down.

Ahe is unusual for these atolls, it has good shelter from nearly all winds behind a reef, just off the main town. You just need to make sure you avoid the pinnacle like coral heads that rise from 10m below to scarily close to the top of the water. Fine for many boats, but with our deep draft of 2.35m, a real worry. As strong southerly winds were predicted, Ahe was a good place to be.

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Good light is essential when anchoring. This large coral reef behind Sea Cloud is all but invisible in the wrong light.

Its Heiva time, the major festival season in French Polynesia. Most cruisers, and many of the locals are in Papeete for the huge celebrations there. We decided on having a few weeks more out in the islands rather than heading to the big smoke too early. Ahe has a population of 300, many of whom live on pearl farms on the small motu that surround the atoll. Heiva, is a small affair here, but has a 2 week calendar of games, races and celebrations. The locals are very friendly and welcomed us to their July 14 national day flag raising ceremony and opening of the Heiva games.

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Our final atoll before Papeete is Rangiroa, a place with spectacular snorkelling and diving. But it is tricky, with the main anchorage exposed to any winds south of east. Unfortunately we’ve had south winds, with more predicted so our stay in Ahe has extended from a couple of days to over a week now. Luckily, it’s a very pleasant place to be.

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Tuamotus

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Our planned stay in Ua Pou was cut short when we looked at the weather and realised we had a perfect window to cross to the Tuamotus. It was a delightful 4 day sail with gentle winds and seas and a full moon. This was the Pacific sailing I’d been hoping for!

The Marquesas to the Tuamotus, what a contrast! We left the lofty peaks of Ua Pou behind and arrived at the flat coconut fringed atoll of Kauehi.

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As strong winds and big swells were expected so we had decided to make landfall in the ‘easy’ pass of Kauehi, rather than Makemo. It was still pretty hairy for a first pass with 4knots of current against us! Sea Cloud coped well.

IMG_5554In retrospect, we should have visited Makemo first. After a few weeks in the Tuamotus we have realised that going south east at this time of the year is an impossibility. Unless you don’t mind sailing to windward and against the seas. Not our idea of fun!

It’s a different world in the Tuamotus. Kauehi was all we had dreamed a coral atoll to be. Crystal clear water, good snorkelling and palm fringed coral beaches to wander. The weather was perfect for those first few days. We were greeted by cruising friends with a pizza dinner on the first night. Its such a social life out here in the Pacific.

 

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IMG_5667With the group moving to Fakarava, we decided to tag along. It’s great around here to sail with a buddy boat or two – it makes the long dinghy rides to good snorkelling areas safer with two dinghies.

IMG_5590We’ve now spent 2 weeks in Fakarava, one of the largest of the Tuamotus. There are plenty of anchorages and places to explore, even a small town with much better provisioning than we’d expected. The snorkelling is fantastic. We’ve snorkelled and dived the legendary South Pass, famous for the hundreds of sharks which frequent the bottom of the pass, between the coral banks.

IMG_8232IMG_8218I never thought I’d feel comfortable about being so close to these magnificent creatures, but they really don’t pay any attention to us. It’s a wonderful time of the year to be here. Groupers are arriving in their hundreds, an estimated 18,000 of them will be here, ready to spawn at the first full moon after the Equinox. The daily increase in the number of grouper below us in the channel was very noticeable. After about 5 days of sheltering from northerly winds near Rotoava, we are headed back to the South Pass. I can’t wait to see how many are there now.

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The Tuamotus are not called the dangerous isles for nothing. It a complicated place to sail. As well as keeping an eye on the weather, calculating slack current on which to enter or exit the atolls has become a preoccupation. Get the timing wrong and you could encounter standing waves, or current strong enough to turn a boat sideways. Anchorages are littered with coral bommies. There is a real knack in not getting your anchor stuck in coral, or wrapped around a bommie. Anchor buoys to float the chain seem like a good idea, unless they tangle around themselves, creating even more problems! We have a lot to learn. Sailing is challenging also. Although most of the large atolls have marked channels, there are still very shallow areas. We now have ‘rat lines’ on the stays, so I can climb up about 10m to better view the area.

IMG_5746Even experienced and careful people hit things here, keeping a lookout for shallow spots is essential. Not so easy when there is cloud, rain, waves, or poor light. It does not pay to be in a hurry in this part of the world. So our pace has slowed down, we are enjoying the slow life here, taking our time, meeting locals and other cruisers and chilling out a little more.

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Lisa – Hirafa restaurant

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Rotoava

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