Patagonia – without Sea Cloud

Patagonia has always been on our bucket list. Over a dinner 12 months ago, six of us decided that February 2020 was the time to go. We’ve just returned from and wonderful (and very well timed) month in Chile and Argentina.

Santiago, was steamy and hot. Fortunately, February was rather settled politically as most Chileans were on their annual holidays. There certainly was evidence of the recent riots, with banks and many other buildings hoarded or closed and graffiti everywhere. 

Bellavista was a fun area to chill out and eat.

Our high rise apartment in Providencia had great views of the local mountains, when the air was clear enough

Valparaiso, on the coast is a colourful place, with brightly painted houses adorning the hills overlooking the harbour.

The excellent Museum of Memory and Human Rights in Santiago was a sobering reminder of Chile’s terrible history during the Pinochet regime.

Our 3 week Adventure Life tour started with a walking tour of the historical centre of Santiago.

We ended up in the best Pisco bar in LaStarria. Pisco sours very quickly became a favourite tipple (especially for Jenny!)

LaStarria, close to the city centre is covered in graffiti showing the recent unrest. Very disturbing were the posters of the many young protesters who died.

As our tour guide said, if you want to find out what is going on in Chile, read the walls, not the newspapers.

Casablanca is a wine area about 1.5 hours from Santiago. We had a short bike ride and plenty of time for an interesting tour and wine tasting.

Our Hotel Meridiano Sur had a very pleasant garden for drinks 

Dinner at Liguria in nearby Providencia

After an extremely early morning flight, we arrived in the Atacama Desert, 1000miles north of Santiago.

San Pedro de Atacama

Afternoon walk through the Valle de la Luna

Followed by sunset overlooking the Valley of Death while enjoying local wine and cheese

There are plenty of interesting day excursions from San Pedro.

The main Salar de Atacama (salt flats) were closed but the Altiplanic lagoons were very spectacular

San Pedro town was fun for dinner although we were definitely on the older side – it’s a very popular place for backpackers.

The El Ratio Geysers were spectacular at sunrise. 

Our next excursion was to Rainbow Valley & visiting one of the many archeological sites

Our last night in the desert – a great meal at the hotel and more Pisco Sours

Hotel Casa Don Tomas – Atacama

From the desert to the lakes. We flew from Atacama to Puerto Montt and then on to Puerto Varas in Chile’s Lakes District

Puerto Varas
Trekking in Perez Rosales National Park
Rafting Petrohue River

Rafting was a lot more fun than we’d expected. We then flew to Punta Arenas for an overnight stop before our long day of driving to  Ecocamp Patagonia.

Ecocamp Patagonia, within the Torres del Paine National Park was a perfect base from which to trek the famous peaks of Chilean Patagonia.  

We stayed in the very cosy standard domes, nestled within the vegetation around the ecocamp complex.  

The nearby community domes housed the bar and restaurant. There was even a yoga dome, not that we had time to visit.

The domes has wonderful views of the Towers – our first day’s hike

As it is the best known and most accessible, this 8 hour trek to the base of the Towers is extremely popular.  February as most Chileans are on holidays is especially busy. 

Our guides, Martina and Roberto were are perfect couple to guide us – Martina being Swiss, was very organised and on time. Roberto,  a flamboyant Chilean sociologist always had a story to tell.

Unfortunately we couldn’t see all of the towers from the lunch spot.

Camp was a very welcome sight after our 24km trek.
Our second day was a much less demanding walk , but with equally spectacular views

We trekked to Grey Glacier in true Patagonian weather – howling wind, rain, sleet and then some sunshine.

Our last day at Ecocamp was spent on a property searching for wild horses.

which we eventually found.

It was a delightful day spent in a beautiful unspoiled valley. Our guide,Victor, is a vet who is passionate about the wild horses and the environment. We were privileged to have his insights into life in this special part of the world. 


While in Patagonia we had seen plenty of vicuna (small llamas)

and llamas,but what we all wanted to see was a puma. There was great excitement in the van as we  spotted one on our way back to Ecocamp.

After our last night in the lovely Ecocamp,
 we left for our day long transfer across the Chilean border to El Calafate and the glaciers of Argentina.

Our afternoon in El Calafate was spent searching for money. We had not realised how dire the financial situation is in Argentina. ATMs would only give us the equivalent of $200 USD, and each withdrawal cost $30. We needed USD cash, which could be readily exchanged. Fortunately most places did take credit cards. 

The spectacular Perito Moreno Glacier is about 1.5 hours drive from El Calafate.

Another few hours transfer took us to El Chalten, the hiking capital of Patagonian Argentina.

Our very comfortable hotel – Hosteria SenderosWe were so fortunate with the weather, apparently our few days were the best so far this season. 

We chose to do the most difficult hike – Mt FitzRoy on our first day. 

The hike was beautiful and not so demanding apart from the 1 hour of 1000m vertical in the middle the day. The views from lunch spot at the top were well worth the climb.If we thought our hike was tough, it was nothing like trekking on the glacier…

The end of a tough but wonderful day!

The hike to Laguna Torre was another full day of beautiful views.

We guessed this guy was a Swede – and were correct!

The hike was not demanding enough for Dave who needed to have a run following lunch

 After seven days of pretty demanding trekking,  both the boots and legs were feeling a little worse for wear. The old hiking boots only just made it to the end of the trip. Thank goodness for duct tape.

From El Chalten, back to El Calafate then on to civilisation in Buenos Aires.

Our AirBnB was in the fabulous, rather chic area of Palermo Soho,

amidst the trendy bars and restaurants.

Unfortunately David and Jenny headed home to Aus.

The four of us had a relaxing week enjoying this very vibrant city.

– shopping at the San Telmo markets

waiting for the shopping to end..

watching tango on the streets

wandering around the city

visiting museums

enjoying too many cocktails, and eating the best Argentinian steak.

Back in Santiago for our last night before flying home we negotiated the subway

to return to our favourite Pisco bar in LaStarria

Then back to Sydney, totally unaware that within a few weeks the borders to Australia, Argentina and Chile would be completely closed.  We were so fortunate to have experienced this time in Patagonia and to be now home safely with our families. We feel for the many wonderful locals we met during our travels.

Touring NZ

Sea Cloud is in the Bay of Islands Marina in Opua, giving us a good opportunity to explore the local region of Northland.

Russell is a very pretty town, a short ferry ride from Paihia.

Duke of Marlborough Hotel

We rented bikes from near the marina to cycle the Twin Coast cycleway, a 88km, 2 day cycle across Northland.

We were dropped off in Horeke, on the west coast.

Our first day of cycling started as fairly gentle, through mangrove swamps, then farmland and bushland.

We’d been warned about the killer hill – about 1.8km of uphill, definitely bike pushing, not riding for us.

After lunch in Okaihoe, it was mostly flat or downhill to Kaikohe where we spent the night in the beautifully restored Left Bank Hotel.

Day 2 was pretty much all a gentle downhill ride back to Opua, mainly along the old train lines. The weather was great, we only had one short rain shower as we crossed the beautiful old suspension bridge.

Kawakawa was meant to be just a lunch stop but turned into a train ride on the beautifully restored trains run by enthusiastic locals. Ian was like a kid, very excited to be allowed to ride up front with the driver.

After leaving the train, we had an easy ride into Opua, crossing the old bridge and then riding along the riverfront.

We ran into cruising friends at the Kerikeri market. Joanie and Bob are Kerikeri locals who we met in Turkey in 2011. They gave us tips for food – the mussel fritters at the market, and recommended local sites to see around Kerikeri and further afield.

Kerikeri Honey cafe

Our friends Price and Benny, well known for their style and cooking throughout the Pacific entertained us once again with a delicious dinner on their aptly named catamaran, Panache.

It may like look like all holiday, but we’ve also spent time doing never ending boat jobs. Everywhere I looked on boat, I found more beer. Ian had over-catered by about 250 cans when we left Panama. He couldn’t face the thought of running out of beer – especially when they were only 49cents each! Fortunately in a marina there are many people happy to take excess supplies.

There are lots of good walks in the area – Kerikeri waterfalls walk was lovely.

We headed south for a few days driving holiday. The coastline and farmland south of Whangarei is very beautiful.

We were excited to be going to Tokatoka B&B Farmstay to experience NZ country life. We weren’t disappointed! Our hosts, Sara and Peter went out of their way to make us feel welcome, to show us the local sights and a give us taste of farm life. They also have a great sense of humour!

The hike up Tokatoka peak was worth the spectacular view at the top.

with Peter our guide and the lovely Bella.

Having run a huge dairy farm for years, Peter and Sara now have a smaller plot with a delightful collection of animals.

newly shorn alpacas

After  a delicious dinner, we were amused watching ducks and geese caught, ready for Sara to take an assortment of her animals for display at the local Whangarei show.

For us, it was an early morning start in the milking shed. What an experience! The contented looking cows tolerated our fumbling hands well.

The Kauri museum at Matakohe was highly recommended by Joanie and Bob. And what a great museum it is! The result of a dedicated local museum is an incredible display of the kauri industry and life during those times.

The lush green pastures around here are such a contrast to the horrible fire situation at home. The fires even made the front page of the local paper.

The Holiday Park outside the Trounson Kauri forest offered Kiwi night walks. Although we didn’t manage to spot a kiwi, we did hear them and the walk through the forest was fabulous.The park a very pretty place to stay.

The Waipoua Forest is the home of the largest Kauri trees in NZ.

Unfortunately dieback threatens these spectacular ancient trees. We were very privileged to be able to walk through the park, as I suspect this might not be the case in the future.

Te Matua Ngahere
Tane Mahuta. These 2 trees are reputed to be over 2000 years old.

On to Hokianga Harbour.

The entrance to the harbour on the usually wild and woolly NZ west coast looked treacherous, even on this rather calm day.

NZ Christmas bush is blooming everywhere.

What a great end to a few days away – a very enjoyable dinner with other cruisers at Joanie and Bob’s beautiful place in Kerikeri.

Cruising NZ

Sea Cloud was launched at Marsden Cove, ready to sail north to Opua. We just needed a weather window. It was great to be back sailing on Sea Cloud, one year after arriving in NZ.

A pod of dolphins welcomed us to beautiful Whangamumu. They spent each afternoon frolicking around the yachts in the bay. Shame the water was too cold to swim with these playful friendly creatures.

Whangamumu is a beautiful, peaceful bay, with great, almost all round shelter.

Ashore is an old whaling station and spectacular walks.

Reluctantly leaving Whangamumu, we had a very pleasant sail around Cape Brett to reach the Bay of Islands to take shelter before the next strong wind warning. Strong winds seem to be very frequent in this part of the world right now!

We managed to drop anchor off Bay of Islands Marina just before it started to pour.

Fortunately the weather changes very quickly in this part of the world.

Cruising on Unmyama

Sea Cloud is tucked away under her covers in Marsden Cove Marina, Whangarei, NZ. We should’ve been joining the other yachts about now to sail north to Tonga, Fiji and beyond, but as my aging parents were in need of a bit of assistance, we’ve stayed put in Sydney for the season.

We’d met Dick and Monique (Dutch catamaran SY Umnyama) in Curacao at the end of  2017. Our paths crossed many times as we sailed our way across the Pacific. They spent the summer/cyclone season in the bay in front of our house in Sydney. Now they are headed north for Indonesia then to South Africa, so we jumped at the invitation to join them sailing between Airlie Beach and Cairns in Northern Queensland.

Proserpine Airport’s rather amusing way to occupy passengers waiting for their bags.

It was good to be back on a boat again, and to enjoy the extra space of a catamaran.

Our first stop was Gloucester Passage, a beautiful calm anchorage with a spectacular sunset.

There are long stretches between anchorages along this coastline, hence our very early departure for Upstart Bay, just north of Ayr.

We are now in crocodile (and stinger) territory.

Magnetic Island’s Horseshoe Bay anchorage was rather busy. The grey sky cleared in time for the Fort Walk and its wonderful views.

Magnetic island is one of the 2 places we’ve seen koalas in the wild. A mother and her very active baby were just along the pathway.

We were keen to stop at Orpheus Island. Although the pilot book mentioned good walks, they weren’t easy to find. Jim, who worked at the James Cook University Research Centre was very helpful, filling us in on the history of Orpheus, and pointing us in the direction of the giant clams (the bay just off the research station) and telling us about the main walks on the island.

Pioneer Bay – walk starts behind the research station and crosses to the other side of the island.   Apparently this is a 2 hour reasonably demanding walk requiring sturdy footwear.

Little Pioneer Bay – walk starts at the right of the picnic tables behind the National Park sign. The walk is quite well marked by pink plastic ribbons and although overgrown was easy to follow, taking about 1.5 hours from the beach to the top of the island. The path passes the ruins of a stone house and has 360degree views from the top.

South towards Fantome Island
Its a long sail to New Zealand
Umnyama, once again, the only boat in the bay.

Little Orpheus is less than 10nm from the start of the Hinchinbrook Channel. The 5.7km long jetty at Lucinda is visible from quite a distance.

Negotiating Lucinda Bar

Clouds cleared again, and with little wind we could enjoy the spectacular landscape of Hinchinbrook.

We anchored at peaceful Scrubby Point at the northern end of the Channel and braved a walk ashore

Cardwell, the main town on the Hinchinbrook Channel was a quirky, friendly place with good provisions. There is no longer evidence of the devastation Cyclone Yasi caused to the town in 2011.

Cardwell’s fish shop

The resort at Dunk Island, our next anchorage is still in ruins after Cyclone Yasi. The big bonus here for us cruisers were the hot showers in the camping area. Quite a luxury on a cool and cloudy evening.

With strong winds predicted, we’d hoped to have a decent sail to Fitzroy Island, our next anchorage 50nm north. Unfortunately the wind came in after we’d arrived.

Manta ray spotting

Luckily we managed to hike to the summit of the island before the seas in the anchorage became too uncomfortable.

With cloudy skies, strong winds and rain predicted for the next few days, we decided the marina in Cairns was the place to be. Umnyama will spend the next month at Cairns Cruising Yacht Squadron before continuing north to Indonesia as part of the Sail Indonesia Rally.

After a day of sightseeing at Port Douglas and Mossman Gorge

a fabulous Thai meal by the waterfront in Cairns

we headed back to Sydney (and better weather), Monique to Holland and Dick stayed in Cairns to prepare for the next journey north. Although Queensland’s weather didn’t live up to their advertising slogan of ‘beautiful one day, perfect the next’ we had a great 10 days on Umnyama!

The BFH (Big Fat High)

IMG_4465You’ve probably never heard of a big fat high (BFH). Neither had we – but this somewhat unusual weather pattern was to create near ideal conditions for us during the potentially tough passage south between Tonga and New Zealand. While the low latitude circumnavigation (trade wind) route has been nick named the “coconut milk run” conditions west of French Poly can be affected to a significant degree by systems developing to the south. Indeed between Bora Bora and Tonga, we had already encountered enhanced trades due to the “squeeze effect” as these systems abut the trade wind belt accelerating winds and building southerly swells. They say if “the (high) pressure is over 30, the weather gets dirty”. Many seasoned circumnavigators frequently report their toughest conditions in the stretch heading south to New Zealand from Tonga or Fiji. So, it was with some apprehension that we and many other sailors fill the Wifi cafes each day in Neiafu Harbour anxiously poring over computer generated weather forecasts, and wind/wave models (GRIB files), reading MetBob’s* weekly forecast and tuning in each morning to the knowledgeable David Spillane’s daily weather rundown on Gulf Harbour Radio (SSB 8.752 MHz;

*Bob McDavett ,the Kiwi weather guru and router whom we used for voyage planning.

Mango Bar, NeiafuAfter the check out formalities, we rafted up 3 deep in Neiafu to top with duty free fuel delivered to the main dock by tanker.

Refuelling, NeiafuThis harbour, also called Refuge Bay for its all round protection, turned gusty and grey in pouring rain with white caps scudding across the water while Meteo Tonga issued a strong wind and damaging swell warning – a nice little morale booster as we were committed to sail 1,200 miles south to NZ.


Last calm meal (bacon!)

As predicted by David & Patricia (Gulf Harbour Radio,) we did have “sporty” conditions the first 3 days heading south from Tonga but no major surprises nor easterly moving depressions or fronts that can frequently come in from the west.



Alex in his element

IMG_9142Fortunately, the winds averaged only 20-25 knots with 2-3m, somewhat confused, beam seas but the predicted 3.9m seas did not eventuate. Although uncomfortable, Sea Cloud performed admirably, slicing though the seas with triple reefed main, double reefed genoa doing 8+ knots much of the time. What great sailing – posting daily averages of 180Nm for the first 3 days.

After day 3 the seas and winds subsided to 18-22kts and, with a full moon, even the night shifts were a delight. With Alex and Diana (formerly SY Enki; HR48) on board, we all had plenty of sleep and quickly settled into the rhythm of the passage and daily routines as the daylight hours lengthened rapidly. We couldn’t have asked for better crew than Alex and Diana who unhesitatingly accepted when we first invited them to join us on the passages between French Poly and NZ. They have countless sea miles under their belts, most of them in SY Enki, an identical HR48, and they are unbeatable scrabble players – so they were right at home on Sea Cloud. Diana is a great cook and Alex is superb at cleaning up.


IMG_9160As we head south we are working our way through all our fresh food to leave as little as possible to surrender to NZ Customs. Those wonderful pamplemoose (grapefruit); bananas, papaya and pineapples will be sorely missed; as will the plentiful fresh fish which filled our freezer.


The water and air temperatures also plummeted. It was the first time we’d been in winter woollies, sea boots and wet weather gear on Sea Cloud for a very long time.


IMG_9157Ian hung on desperately to his tropical gear while Alex dressed appropriately for the “subtropical” conditions.


Ian kept in touch the daily informal SSB radio net with a small flock of about 5 boats within a radius of about 300 miles. He also logged into the larger SOPAC SSB net (8.137MHz) daily which connected a greater number of yachts within a radius of 1,000 miles, en route to either Australia or New Zealand. This was useful getting actual wind and sea observations ahead of us to reconcile with our GRIB files. Although we only saw one other yacht throughout the passage, there were a lot of us out there. During the following week, 200 yachts arrived in Opua many trying to get south before the official start of the cyclone season (1st Nov) and taking full advantage of the BFH.

Nightly SSB radio Net

The weather settled as predicted. We had beautiful sailing on calmer seas, a full moon and very pleasant weather. It was calm enough to do some boat jobs, work and sewing.





We were welcomed into NZ territorial waters by the Navy Orion aircraft.

IMG_4467Land Ho! The green hills of the northern cape of NZ were a very welcome sight after 7 days at sea. Even more pleasing, we’d arrived 2 days ahead of the expected incoming low pressure approaching the North Island.IMG_3118


What we’d thought was a black and white navigational aid as we approached Whangarei was in fact a training F-50 (foiling cat). The chase boats had difficulty keeping up what we estimated as a speed of about 35knots in only 12knots of breeze.


Safely berthed in Marsden Cove Marina, Whangarei it was time for a cold beer and celebratory glass of bubbly and fois gras while watching the glorious sunset and looking forward to a night of sleep in a non-moving bed.

Landfall NZ - time to celebrate!


IMG_3373Ahhhhg leave me alone!IMG_6959

So good to be in beautiful New Zealand. We took advantage of the last of the fine weather brought by the BFH to explore the Whangarei town and environs.



We couldn’t have asked for better crew than Diana and Alex.


Sea Cloud was hauled out Port Whangarei Marine Centre for some maintenance. We had just made it in time, the day after lifting we had 49knots through the yard. The BFH had moved on, making way for the usual system of lows to cross NZ.



Sea Cloud – 26.5Tons!


The Cooks miss the Cooks

by guest blogger, Diana Bagnall

Almost a month has slipped past since Sea Cloud was boarded by a couple of pale-skinned, bleary-eyed, past-their-prime individuals whose most convincing claim to a berth on the vessel as she headed westward from French Polynesia was an intimate knowledge of her dark and private spaces, and a fair to reasonable understanding of how she is likely to perform in a variety of gnarly situations.

So far, so good.


Would you sail across an ocean with these two?

The crew are still on board. Jeez, Barry.  The good-humoured captain continues to propose Dark and Stormies each evening as the sun goes down – or not, as was the case last night when Neiafu harbor was a blur of low cloud and fine drizzle. We are tied off to a mooring here, debating endlessly (as happens always in these situations) the merits or otherwise of departing for New Zealand today, tomorrow or the day after. You wouldn’t believe the algorithms these weather people can come up with now. The skipper has a rather inelegant phrase to describe what they do to your head.

This next 1200 mile passage from Tonga down to the top of New Zealand is the big one. It’s the one everyone stresses about, and it’s when a couple more hands on deck can really be useful. We’ll just say that it’ll be fine, and we’ll tell you when we’re into Whangarei, our nominated port of entry.

To backtrack though….The passage from Bora Bora through to Tonga is frequently under-estimated by cruisers. More tradewind sailing, dah de dah. Piece of cake. Actually, it proves not to be so often. Actually, it’s also 1200 miles, and that’s a long way.


Downwind sailing never loses its appeal


On passage we are all big readers


It doesn’t happen often but every so often the girls bring out their stitching

Sea Cloud broke her voyage at the 1000 mile mark in Niue, bypassing all of the Cook Islands including the curiosity of Palmerston (an atoll supporting 60 people) in order to have something more interesting to do during the enforced four-day layover. There was no proceeding past Niue because the weather ahead had turned to custard. Big seas, big winds.


Big seas are always difficult to photograph


The swell off Togo cave on the south coast of Niue – glad we weren’t out there

Niue was fun. Sea Cloud’s skipper and his fabulously cheerful wife put high store on achieving a decent fun-to-crap ratio (another of the skipper’s memorable phrases, by the way). So we got out there in a rental car for a couple of days. You really can’t go that far in Niue, which is a smallish limestone rock surrounded by crashing seas. But what you see is dramatic, and the water is so startlingly clear (the limestone again) that when you don mask, snorkel and fins, the sights under the water are astoundingly vivid. Top marks to Niue for water clarity and surely some of the world’s most bizarre limestone formations.


The mooring field off the town of Alofi on Nuie island was rollier than it looks here


It seems complicated at first, but you soon get the hang of lifting your tender ashore on Niue


Walking on Niue with Dominique (front) and Frederic of Cap a Cap, a French-flagged Garcia


The glorious colour in Limu pools, one of the clearest snorkelling spots on the planet, surely

Ian will not remember Niue for the quality of its bush roads however. They are off the chart in terms of potholes, scratchy bushes, and reliable lack of signage.

We pushed on from Niue a little ahead of time, forcing Ian and Cathy to cancel a dive. More’s the pity, but if there’s a choice between taking the wind, and taking a dive, the wind wins. Even so, we lost it about 12 hours out of Tonga. That opened the way for a bit of fishing. This (below) is the money shot, perhaps not the one Ian wanted, but it expresses the essence of the fight. The Prof vs the Sailfish. Yes, that’s right, folks. Game on. Cathy wasn’t keen on the event at all, but Ian was determined to bring the big fish into the boat. Then, and only then, did the first mate get the go ahead to cut it free.


The Prof vs the Sailfish

Sea Cloud entered the Vava’u archipelago on a perfect Sunday afternoon, when all of Tonga was either asleep or feasting on barbecued pig, and dropped anchor in Port Maurelle, a bay remembered fondly by the crew from their own cruising days in Vava’u in 2015.


Swallow’s Cave, on Kapa island, in the Vava’u archipelago, Tonga


Port Maurelle was a sight for sore eyes on entry to Tonga


Diana in one of those old Turkish tee shirts that keep on giving

With only five days out in the islands, we’ve managed to tick off Swallow’s Cave, Hunga lagoon and the splendid coral garden snorkel near anchorage 16 (the Vava’u island anchorages are so difficult to remember, and there are so many of them, that cruising yachts and fishermen refer to them by numbers).


Sunset over Port Maurelle


Moving between Hunga (#13) and Vaka’eitu (#16) anchorages

And Cathy and crew hit the market hard. We’re leaving port with a stack of pineapples on the aft deck, and the benchtop packed tight with tomatoes, green peppers, bananas, papaya and new potatoes.


To market, to market…to buy what we need

P1130227The crew have a tan now, by the way. It’s unfashionable to acquire a tan these days, but here in the islands, it works better than pale with the prevailing fashions. If summer temps have arrived by the time we reach New Zealand though, I’ll eat my salt-infused hat.


Jeez Barry,  you’d think they would have had enough of each other by now

Photos by guest photographer, Alex Nemeth


This market lady sold sweet basil and other herbs, with cruisers in mind


Staff at Mango cafe polishing trophies in anticipation of the opening of the billfish competition 


Future Tongan rugby player on the mean streets of Neiafu

Last of the Societies

After a very speedy trip back to Sydney to catch up with family and friends, we flew back into Raiatea.

IMG_8817The small Opoa hotel was a perfect place to enjoy lunch on our last day on this lovely island.


IMG_8827The weather for the next 10 days was superb, the calmest and sunniest stretch we’d had in this part of the world. The calm weather enabled us to anchor over lovely white sand, just off the Coral Garden on Tahaa.

IMG_6497IMG_6521What a beautiful spot. The days were spent snorkelling amongst the coral and many colourful fish. Some say that the best thing about Bora Bora is the view from Tahaa. We’d yet to visit Bora Bora, but they may be right.


The wind came up enough for a slow sail across to Huahine. As we threaded our way along the inside of the reef to Avea Bay we were joined by a local in his Va’a, obviously training for the big race between Huahine, Bora Bora and Raiatea which occurs in November. He had no trouble keeping up with Sea Cloud.


Avea Bay at the southern end of Huahine is such a beautiful anchorage. After months of avoiding coral heads and trying to find a spot with good holding, it was wonderful to drop the anchor in sand holding in beautiful clear water. It was a week of exploring by dinghy, enjoying happy hour and local entertainment at the Mahana Hotel


IMG_6575cycling around Huahine Iti, and driving around the larger Huahine Nui.


Huahine is known as the wild one because of its rugged lush green soaring hills. As well as being a spectacular island, it is also incredibly friendly and laid back.



IMG_6590Unfortunately the good weather ended the day before the Diana and Alex arrived to join us on our next adventures down to New Zealand. We met them at the dinghy dock in pouring rain which continued relentlessly for the whole day.

IMG_8996Provisioning complete, we sailed to Raiatea for the night, then on to Bora Bora the next morning. Luckily the rain had stopped so we could enjoy approach to the famous Bora Bora to check out of French Polynesia.





The good weather didn’t last for long, with very strong winds and lots of rain for our first few days in Bora Bora where we anchored off the very bumpy MaiKai Hotel. This used to be a haven for yachties, but the new management certainly wasn’t welcoming.  We moved to the much calmer and friendlier Bora Bora Yacht club where we met up with a number of cruisers also heading west to Tonga.

Although we haven’t seen much of Bora Bora we are keen to move along. The weather is looking pretty good, so on to Tonga, hopefully breaking up the 1200nm (8 day sail) with stops in the Cook Islands of Palmerston and or Niue if weather allows.



Society Islands – Tahiti and Moorea

Although it was hard to leave Rangiroa and the Tuamotus, we were excited to be heading to Tahiti to meet up with Bron and Tim, my sister and brother in law.

The Bay of Venus where Captain Cook spent time to watch the transit of Venus was a perfect anchorage. It was peaceful, calm and had stunning views of the green hills of Tahiti.

IMG_6166 It was a shock to the system to be back in the ‘big smoke’ of Papeete. Marina Papeete is right the middle of town, conveniently located close to the central market.

We had a relatively calm day to sail to Moorea. As we rounded the top of the island, Ian thought he spotted an uncharted reef, only to realise that it was a whale. The whale seemed quite interested in Sea Cloud, diving under the boat, surfacing just nearby and breaching so many times. An incredible welcome for Bron and Tim, we had to tell them such a display is not a normal part of our daily cruising life.



IMG_6232IMG_6234IMG_6211We spent a week anchored behind the reef in the beautiful Opunohu Bay in Moorea.

IMG_6258IMG_6249It was a week of relaxing,


IMG_9454swimming with the sharks and rays

Frame-06-08-2018-15-18-08Frame-06-08-2018-15-11-31Frame-06-08-2018-14-39-31Frame-06-08-2018-15-06-29Frame-06-08-2018-15-35-12walking ashore through the pineapple plantations and numerous Marae to the Belvedere overlooking Cook and Opunohu Bays

IMG_8674IMG_8678IMG_8686Bron and Tim had a taste of the cruising life, meeting some of the friends we’d been cruising with over the past few months,


and sampling some of the local cuisine. We ate a lot of tuna!


Snorkelling with the whales was one of the experiences of a lifetime. Looking down through the water you realised the large shape slowly appearing then rising below you was a pair of whales. Such beautiful, graceful and gentle creatures.


Tim thinks we should be trading in Sea Cloud for a catamaran such as Panache! Price and Benny cooked a feast of dumplings for our last night in Moorea.



We all (including Bron) enjoyed a lovely sail back to Papeete



We rented a car and circumnavigated Tahiti. We’d hoped to see some of the Billabong Pro competition at Teahupoo on Tahiti Nui. Unfortunately there was no surf that day, so no competition.

I can’t imagine that there are many places where you can anchor your boat so close to the really big waves.

IMG_6276IMG_6295IMG_6278this is how the waves should have looked..


Lunch in this part of the world was a very casual affairIMG_6297IMG_8722We farewelled Bron and Tim and sailed overnight to Raiatea, where we’d planned to haul out and leave Sea Cloud for the cyclone season. The day we arrived we were told that Sea Cloud was too big for the lift at Raiatea Carenage.

We had non refundable flights booked home and family and friends looking forward to seeing us. Luckily, we were able to leave Sea Cloud for a week in Marina Apooiti. We flew back to Sydney to catch up with family and friends. On our return, we will prepare for the 2500Nm sail to New Zealand. Not what we’d planned for this season, but it is our only option. You need to be flexible in this cruising life!



Entry via Avotora Pass at slack water looks benign, but the 2 wrecks (one each end of the pass) are a timely reminder that these passes can be tricky.

1Tiputa pass during outgoing current in benign conditions can still look pretty ugly for the sailor but..

Great sport for the dolphins and the evening dolphin watchers..2


Especially when a larger vessel exits 4

Dropped anchor (under sail for the 3rd time this season thanks to another failure by the “Green Death”, aka Volvo diesel) in calm idyllic anchorage in sand (littered with coral bommies) overlooked by the lucky guests at the Kia Ora luxury resort.



7Taking advantage of the calm weather and the next outgoing current, just a hop skip and a jump in an inflatable with Rangiroa Plongee to dive the outer reef.

8We were extremely lucky to not only see the dolphins but one clearly keen to “chill out and play”.


14The snorkelling inside the atoll behind a small motu kept us entertained when not diving. The myriad of fish and lazy black tip sharks is why this very accessible spot is called “The Aquarium”.

15161819Our daily routine started with a morning dive; either a drift dive into the Tiputa Pass where one felt like flying over canyons.


21More enjoyable and interesting were the outer reef dives with the chance of seeing “the big stuff” with a foray out into “deep blue” to see dolphins, this school of large sailfish or the sharks lingering in the deeper water.

2223… as well as the coral gardens supporting copious reef fish of all shapes and colours.



We’d highly recommend a daylong excursion to the Blue Lagoon (an atoll within an atoll) on the SW margin of the atoll. It’s a tricky place to take Sea Cloud as there is no protection from virtually all prevailing wind and waves – so it’s not tenable in anything over 10kts of breeze. Instead we relaxed while Manu from Rangiroa Fishing Tours took as small group to his family’s island for a magical snorkel amongst the sharks, fresh fish lunch and some simple R&R while soaking up the ambience. Manu did a superb job and we felt totally alone in this popular tourist attraction.




IMG_8275Unsettled weather prolonged our stay Fakarava. We seemed to be in synch with our friends Benny and Price on Panache who had their lovely kids visiting from Canada. We’d transited the canal tied to Panache and have met up with them in many places since. Panache is notorious for good food and company, usually in the ‘Tiki lounge’ of their lovely, very spacious catamaran.We visited the little pearl farm/resort in Rotava, all buying a pearl in their lucky dip. Some were very lucky when their oyster was opened to reveal a large black pearl.


The resort was a lovely place for lunch, the delicious local poisson cru – fish marinaded in lime and coconut milk.


After a boisterous sail back into the wind we anchored for a few more days in Kauehi, a place we’d loved but had left all too soon.


Normally the 40Nm sail from Kauehi to Toau would have been an easy day sail, but not here in the Tuamotus. To ensure we coordinated our exit through Kauehi pass and arrival at the Toau pass at slack current, we needed 2 days to get from Kaeuhi to Toau, with an overnight stop in North Fakarava. Kauehi to Fakarava worked well, conditions were good and the passes manageable. When we tried to exit N Fakarava the next morning, the current was stronger than we’d expected– 5knots of current pushing us towards 1m standing waves in the pass. I am sure Sea Cloud would have coped, but we are pretty conservative. So, another night in Fakarava. The next morning we arrived at the pass at what was supposed to be slack current and had a manageable 4knots of outgoing current and only small standing waves. The winds were stronger and seas higher and more confused than predicted, or expected. After a few rather uncomfortable hours of sailing, we realised that we wouldn’t be able to get through the Toau pass that day. We kept sailing to Anse Amyot, a lagoon like haven on the NW corner of Toau. Anse Amyot has an opening to the sea through a small pass, but no opening into the main atoll of Toau and can be entered at any time. We could have come straight from Kaeuhi, as Panache did in one day, rather than take 4 days. Luckily we have lots of time.


It was hard to tear ourselves away from this gorgeous spot. Gaston and Valentine, the owners of the nearby motu have a small restaurant serving lobster and a few mooring buoys which they rent to yachts.

As there is a constant flow of water into the lagoon, the water was exceptionally clear, the coral beautiful and the fish prolific. It was incredible to see the colourful fish swimming around the coral head 9m below Sea Cloud.


We were often the only boat in the lagoon, but did have 2 rather big visitors during our stay, a very unusual sight in this part of the world.


aaApataki, the next atoll north was a pleasant day sail away. The south pass was scary looking but easy at slack current. Pearl farming is big in Apataki, and the Chinese influence obvious.IMG_5859 half


We anchored off the Apataki Carenage. The enterprising local family had turned their pearl farm and vegetable gardens into a boatyard, providing hurricane season storage for about 50 boats, mainly catamarans.



The anchorage near the Apataki’s north pass was fabulous. We anchored in sand about half a mile from the pass, taking care to avoid the numerous coral heads below.ap13

The weather was calm and sunny and the drift snorkel of the pass breathtaking.  The clarity of the water was unbelievable. The water under the dinghy was about 3m deep and you could see the coral so clearly.



Once in the pass we drifted along towing the dinghy, feeling as though we were flying, easily seeing the bottom of the pass 30m below us. The coral banks on the side of the pass extended for a few kms. It was so good, we did it again and again and we were the only ones there.ap9

As the southerly winds came in, we headed out through the pass for a very slow overnight sail, ensuring we would arrive at our destination Ahe at daybreak and slack current. As we couldn’t average a speed of more than 4 knots, it was a change for us having to constantly try and slow Sea Cloud down.

Ahe is unusual for these atolls, it has good shelter from nearly all winds behind a reef, just off the main town. You just need to make sure you avoid the pinnacle like coral heads that rise from 10m below to scarily close to the top of the water. Fine for many boats, but with our deep draft of 2.35m, a real worry. As strong southerly winds were predicted, Ahe was a good place to be.



Good light is essential when anchoring. This large coral reef behind Sea Cloud is all but invisible in the wrong light.

Its Heiva time, the major festival season in French Polynesia. Most cruisers, and many of the locals are in Papeete for the huge celebrations there. We decided on having a few weeks more out in the islands rather than heading to the big smoke too early. Ahe has a population of 300, many of whom live on pearl farms on the small motu that surround the atoll. Heiva, is a small affair here, but has a 2 week calendar of games, races and celebrations. The locals are very friendly and welcomed us to their July 14 national day flag raising ceremony and opening of the Heiva games.


Our final atoll before Papeete is Rangiroa, a place with spectacular snorkelling and diving. But it is tricky, with the main anchorage exposed to any winds south of east. Unfortunately we’ve had south winds, with more predicted so our stay in Ahe has extended from a couple of days to over a week now. Luckily, it’s a very pleasant place to be.